Bon Voyage: Usedom – Vacation in the Imperial Spas
Because one annual vacation is not enough for our author Isabel, she usually packs her bags and suitcases every few weeks to discover new places. Sometimes only for one night – no matter. That's how you can also quite well satisfy wanderlust. Where she went last, what is worth it and what is not, she reveals in “Bon Voyage”.
By Isabel Sophie Möller
Do you know that feeling: Sometimes it just has to be the sea. Traditionally, I always go to the seaside over Pentecost – but not this year. The trip literally fell into the water – or somehow not. Anyway, I'll satisfy my sea longing in the height of summer (aka now) then.
Problem: Thanks to my rather spontaneous impulse to travel, I lacked the time for elaborate planning. Flights and hours-long train journeys are therefore out of the question. Sylt is too expensive for me and the North Sea too rough anyway. My mother's suggestion: “Try Heringsdorf, you felt so comfortable there as a child.” Following the motto “Mom knows best,” I booked a five-day trip to the Baltic Sea. Ahoi!
Pssst: If you do want to fly: There actually is an airport in Heringsdorf. I was surprised how many guests from Bern, Frankfurt, Stuttgart, or Kassel made their journey by air.
Where to stay: Decadent lodging in the venerable seaside resort
Anyone who has read my first column knows: I like the flair of days gone by. No problem in Heringsdorf – it was not called the “Nice of the East” for nothing in the past. From King Friedrich Wilhelm IV of Prussia to Emperor Wilhelm I, the Mann brothers, Leo Tolstoy, or Theodor Fontane, some high-ranking members of the then high society sought relaxation here. So why not me? Well, jokes aside. Still: My expectations are high. Very high.
My first impression was (luckily!) positive. Enormously positive. Long, clean streets lined with Gründerzeit villas. The most beautiful of all: the Villa Hintze.
The stunning building is a true prime example of the – so typical for Usedom – resort architecture of the late 19th century. Once a boarding school for upper-class daughters, it now houses holiday apartments inside. Spoiler: Unfortunately, the villa is not my accommodation. But during my morning walk, I make sure to say “Good morning” to this architectural gem every day.
Because: My accommodation is in the same hood. I am staying at the Strandhotel Heringsdorf, where dogs are allowed (Say Hello to Bichon Frisé Teddy). A contrast to Villa Hintze, as it is extremely modern and clean, yet very appealing. Extra points go to the wonderful breakfast, the great rooftop terrace, the incredibly attentive staff (who even address you by name), and the lovely pool. Because yes: Even though I am on vacation by the sea, I appreciate the benefits of a well-tempered pool. Sorry not sorry.
Places to be
My first stop was – in typical tourist fashion – the pier. A little trivia, in case someone ever sits in the hot seat on “Who Wants to Be a Millionaire”: At 508 meters, it is the longest pier in continental Europe.
The pier resembles a small promenade with numerous places to linger and small shops. The Italian “Ponte Rialto” at the head of the bridge is really recommended. Especially the homemade pasta dishes and the ice cream. Oh yes, the ice cream… Tourist hotspot or not. But even a few meters away, you can enjoy good living and dining in numerous beach bars.
Sweet tooths, I recommend a detour to Bansin to the Café “Schloon Idyll”. At the hotel, I was assured that this is an absolute insider tip. Insider or not: The culinary offerings were delicious. Be sure to try the daily homemade cake creations!
For those who want to dine regionally and traditionally on Usedom, I highly recommend the “Pommersche Fischstube” in Heringsdorf. As a big fish eater, I dared to try the Matjes pot "Fischstubenart" style with apples, onions, leek strips, and roasted potatoes (12.90 euros) and was not disappointed. For a cozy dinner, it's best to reserve a table on the terrace. That way, you can enjoy the lively hustle and bustle on the historic Dünenstraße.
Heringsdorf to-do: Stroll, stroll, stroll.
What I enjoyed most during my five-day Baltic Sea retreat? Walking. Or better yet, let's say "strolling". That fits better.
Of course, you can stroll along the famous white sandy beach. It stretches from Ahlbeck through the center of Heringsdorf to Bansin. But I prefer the promenade. Here you pass magnificent villas, restaurants, cafés, and small, charming boutiques. The typical white villas of Heringsdorf are decorated with columns and numerous stucco elements.
My tip for architecture lovers: Be sure to visit Villa Oppenheim and Villa Auguste Viktoria. The latter was once built in honor of the German Empress Auguste Viktoria and is still considered the most beautiful villa on Usedom today. Today, a hotel and café are located inside.
In the also very magnificent Villa Oechsler is the really well-equipped boutique “Maison Vogue“. History, architecture in Greek-Roman style, and fashion: A shopping visit is worth it!
If you need a break from kilometers of walks, shopping, and eating, you should definitely make a detour to the Ostsee Therme Usedom. Tip: Thanks to the spa card (tourist tax costs between 0.50 – 3.00 euros per day), there is discounted admission. Also a highlight for children!
Heringsdorf: Big Cinema
And now my favorite tip: Whether you're a film fan or not: If you stay on Usedom from late June to early September, you absolutely MUST NOT miss the Kaiserbäder Open Air Summer Cinema at the Heringsdorf pier. Did you hear that: Absolutely DO NOT miss it!
Personally, I'm a big fan of open-air cinema evenings, but one thing is certain: Good movies, a cool white wine in hand AND a view of the sea: It doesn't get more like a vacation than that.
Packing List
The weather on the Baltic Sea is considered unpredictable – which I didn't notice at all. At the beginning of July, I was really lucky and got the full sun experience. All the more grateful I was once again for my absolute beauty favorite: the lightly tinted “Invisible Fluid SPF 50+” from La Roche-Posay.
Also in my luggage: My SoSue sweater "Antonia" in white. Whether thrown over a slip dress in the evening, with denim shorts or 70s pants: I felt wonderfully maritime and always perfectly dressed. A fashion no-brainer – that's what I need on vacation.
Shopped
In Heringsdorf and Ahlbeck, I stocked up on mussel dresses and blouses in all colors. Black (see photo), cream, pink, rose, orange, lilac... in short: I’m probably well equipped for now. Also: These treasures are perfect suitcase pieces for the next trip since I don’t have to iron them.
Also – how could it be otherwise – some books came along on vacation again. A must-do for me on every trip: browsing through small, foreign bookstores. This time (finally) bought: the BookTok trends “The Seven Husbands of Evelyn Hugo” and “Daisy Jones & The Six” by Taylor Jenkins Reid. Both books are already finished and highly recommended!
New discovery
During my long walks, I finally had time to listen to my favorite podcasts. My top 3: “Rich, Beautiful, Dead”, “Strong Women” and “Murder on the Mediterranean”. Well... the location only almost fits the last one, but listening and relaxing with the sound of the sea in the background is definitely much better. As I said: Sometimes it just has to be the sea.
In that spirit: Enough chatting – goodbye dear ones and Bon Voyage!
Yours
Isabel
Isabel Sophie Möller is a journalist for TV, print, and online. Just as unwillingly as she chooses a platform for her creative output, she refuses to be pinned down to one topic to write about. Fashion or beauty? VIPs or royals? Books or Netflix? Food or travel? You can give your heart and thoughts to everything. That's exactly what she does – preferably in her travel/lifestyle column “Bon Voyage,” where she takes her readers along on one of her discovery tours every month. More from Isabel can be found on her Instagram account @the_italian_bazaar