Bon Voyage: Christmas in Elbflorenz Dresden
Coming Home for Christmas? Yes, somehow. I thought long and hard: Should I go away again in December? Maybe somewhere warm? Or to the mountains? But in the end, I decided on Christmas at home. For me, that means: in Saxony. Welcome to the East.
By Isabel Möller
Bon Voyage in Dresden and Pilnitz
Spontaneous idea: Today there is no normal column, but a Christmas special. Bon Voyage goes Christmas.
I love Christmas. Perfect then that today I introduce you to my homeland. Because everyone knows that Saxony is the unofficial Christmas land. At this point, no objections or arguments are tolerated. I mean: Have you ever been to the Ore Mountains?!
So let's get on the bus, train, or car and set off. The first stop? Dresden's Old Town.
Welcome to Elbflorenz
Just recently, I was asked where a “Saxony newcomer” should travel first. My answer: Dresden and Saxon Switzerland. Classics and all-time favourites – but not without reason.
Once arrived, a short break at the Elbe riverbank is worthwhile. Breathe in the crisp winter air deeply, breathe out and marvel: You first have to let this wonderful scenery sink in. The Dresden city skyline with the Frauenkirche and the Hofkirche simply deserves a moment of silence. Personally, I've never seen a more beautiful skyline (maybe I'm not quite so objective today). If anyone can argue otherwise, please send me your personal tips. I will take a closer look at them…
From the Elbe riverbank, you can walk straight into the city. Because Dresden is indeed a big city, but just small enough that you can reach almost everything on foot.
If I really had to name all the Dresden hotspots now, you would – haha – still be sitting here until Christmas (at this point, please laugh heartily. Merci). So the absolute tourist sights in a quick run-through. Because you know: I've discovered short, snappy lists for myself.
● Start at the Elbe Terraces: Enjoy the view of the historic Münzgasse from here and best stop for a first refreshment in one of the many (really good) restaurants.
● Frauenkirche: OUR landmark. Collapsed in 1945, the remains stood in the GDR as a memorial against war and destruction. After the Peaceful Revolution in the GDR, the Frauenkirche was rebuilt and re-consecrated in 2005. Are you in the city over the holidays? Then definitely listen to the Advent concert by the Kreuzchor.
● Catholic Court Church Dresden: Here lies the heart of Elector Augustus the Strong. Legend has it that his heart starts beating when a beautiful woman walks past.
● Speaking of Augustus the Strong: also check out the Zwinger and the Green Vault . The latter is not only known for its legendary jewel theft.
● Only Austrians can do balls? No, we Saxons too. The Semperoper Ball is legendary, but a visit to the magnificent building is of course worthwhile anyway. By the way, next door is the Fürstenzug – also worth a visit.
● Most beautiful photo hotspot: The former factory building of the Yenidze Cigarette Factory. Fun fact: At the beginning of the 20th century, no factory buildings recognizable as such were allowed to be built in the center of Dresden. That is why the then owner had a true masterpiece built that fit into the cityscape. Tip: You can take great photos from the roof of the neighboring parking garage. I speak from experience, I dared to go up there in the summer.
Where to Stay
My opinion: In the Old Town. Because even though the New Town (especially popular with locals) has a very special charm, as a tourist I would definitely prefer the historic atmosphere in the city center. If you are already staying in a city center crowned by cultural heritage, you should make the most of it!
My recommendation: The Hotel Indigo Dresden at Wettiner Platz. The stylish boutique hotel is located amidst the numerous baroque sights of the city.
Also nice: The Hyperion Hotel Dresden at the palace and the Townhouse at Neumarkt.
Culture Club
Dresden is not only about balls and opera, but also theater and comedy - and really well! If you appreciate refined entertainment, you should definitely visit the Comödie Dresden in the city's World Trade Center. The program includes boulevard plays, novel and film adaptations, musical comedies, and musicals. Comedy and acting stars like Ingo Appelt or Egon Balder frequently take the stage.
Where to eat
So? How well do you know me by now? My favorite word? Stop by. In Dresden preferably at the Coselpalais next to the Frauenkirche. If you prefer it a bit less posh, walk past the Grünes Gewölbe and enjoy a cappuccino (or cocktail) on the rooftop terrace of the restaurant “Felix” with a view of the Zwinger.
And believe me: it gets EVEN more photogenic. Namely in the Pfunds Dairy – the most beautiful milk shop in the world. Since the turn of the century, almost nothing has changed here (at least visually).
Christmas in Dresden
Of course, you can also eat… right: at Christmas markets! And there are plenty of those in Dresden. Here are my favorites:
The Classics
● Advent at Neumarkt: Around the Frauenkirche, a historic Christmas market attracts visitors every year, meant to recall the era around 1900 in Dresden. All stalls are designed authentically so that you feel transported back in time.
● Winter Magic in Münzgasse: Fancy traditional craftsmanship and authentic Saxon cuisine? Just a few steps next to the Frauenkirche, vendors and restaurateurs line up in Münzgasse.
● Dresden Striezelmarkt: A bit mainstream, but for many still the undisputed number one. Right on the Altmarkt, the Striezelmarkt opens its gates for the 588th time this year. What is there to see? Traditional Ore Mountain art, numerous small gifts, and many, many food stalls with bratwurst, langos, mulled wine, mulled beer, Pullnitzer gingerbread (definitely take a bag!), Christmas stollen, and more.
● Dresden Winter Lights: A somewhat more modern atmosphere can be found on Prager Straße – the city's shopping mile. Perfect for everyone looking for a little refreshment after gift shopping.
● Augustus Market: Right at the Golden Rider, one of the most popular Christmas markets among locals begins on the Neustadt Elbe side. Here, besides the usual stalls, there is also exotic cuisine from all over the world - and even an ice skating rink.
The little ones
● Christmas Market at the Castle, corner of Hotel Taschenbergpalais Kempinski Dresden: Small but fine and veeeery romantic. Tip: There is an ice rink in the courtyard of the Taschenbergpalais.
● Stallhof Advent Spectacle: My favorite! Every year, a medieval Christmas market with jugglers, minstrels, and an incomparable food offer takes place in the Stallhof within the Dresden Residence Castle. The brave (and those sensitive to cold) can enter the public bathhouse with two huge tubs.
For scene insiders
● Dresdner Hüttenzauber: At Postplatz, thanks to a curling rink and a bar, there is après-ski atmosphere right in the middle of Saxony.
● Neustädter Gelichter: THE Christmas market in Dresden's Neustadt. Its trademark is the oversized “Schwipsbogen,” a somewhat different interpretation of the traditional Schwibbogen. Here everything is a bit more relaxed and individual.
● Elbhang Festival in Dresden Loschwitz: Still an insider tip for many locals. The Christmas market is a bit away from the city center, idyllically surrounded by half-timbered and Umgebinde houses. Nearby is the Blue Wonder. So after the mulled wine, a walk along the Elbe is worthwhile.
Outside: Excursion destinations for the Christmas season
Anyone visiting Dresden should bring time – or come back again. Because not only the city itself has a lot to offer. There are also worthwhile spots outside. Like the three Elbe castles in Loschwitz. Fun fact: Supermodel Nadja Auermann got married at Eckberg Castle in 2019.
My three absolute favorites and winter must-visits are, however, a bit further away:
Pillnitz Castle
Pillnitz is especially known for its park. November to January is when the atmosphere is especially beautiful, as elaborate light worlds have been installed everywhere. A winter walk of the highest class.
Schloss Moritzburg
Do you know Schloss Moritzburg? No? But you know “Three Nuts for Cinderella.” The fairy tale classic was filmed here. Inside the castle, there is an entire exhibition dedicated solely to the Christmas film. Great for children and those who are still children at heart.
Tip: Definitely walk all the way to the little Pheasant Castle. Here Elector August the Strong once celebrated lavish parties. The small baroque castle is rather unknown to tourists, which is why it is wonderfully quiet here.
Schloss Wackerbarth
A little sparkling wine? Here, no one says no to that. Schloss Wackerbarth is picturesquely surrounded by vineyards. At Christmas time, everything here is magically illuminated. You can either stroll through the grounds or book a Christmas menu or an Advent tour through the town where perhaps Saxony's best wines and sparkling wines are made.
Packing List
What to take? Books! As you may have already noticed, the people of Dresden are incredibly proud of August the Strong. Personally, I think his numerous women have much more to offer than the Elector himself. Anyone who wants to form their own opinion should stick their nose into the pages of “August the Strong and his Mistresses.” Also good: the historical novel “The Turkish Mistress” about August's affair Fatima aka Maria Aurora Spiegel.
So: That was a lot, wasn't it? Being concise is on the list of virtues I want to acquire, but today that was hardly doable. Because how am I supposed to pack childhood, youth, and my still young adult years into one column? Difficult. So please forgive the length.
Feel free to visit me sometime in Saxony. I wish you a good trip – Bon Voyage, Merry Christmas, and until next time
Isabel
Isabel Sophie Möller is a journalist for TV, print, and online. Just as unwillingly as she chooses a platform for her creative output, she refuses to be pinned down to one topic to write about. Fashion or beauty? VIPs or royals? Books or Netflix? Food or travel? You can give your heart and thoughts to everything. That's exactly what she does – preferably in her travel-slash-lifestyle column “Bon Voyage,” where she takes her readers along on one of her discovery tours every month. More from Isabel can be found on her Instagram account @the_italian_bazaar