Bon Voyage: Hiking and enjoying in Schladming
Because a yearly vacation is not enough for our author Isabel, she usually packs her bags and suitcases every few weeks to discover new places. Sometimes only for one night – no matter. That's how you can also satisfy wanderlust quite well. Where she went, what is worth it and what is not, she reveals in “Bon Voyage”. This time she went hiking for us in Schladming.
By Isabel Sophie Möller
In the dating world, now would be the time for a little turnaround. Contrast program aka surprise effect. Otherwise, it gets boring, right? So here you go, I can be different too. I'm packing my suitcase and taking with me … hiking boots.
Surprised? Ha! Mission accomplished.
And let me tell you: my hiking boots are not brand-new ones that I bought especially for the vacation. As a hiking enthusiast since day one, I have a perfectly broken-in pair. I'll need them too, because we're heading to…
Schladming!
From East to North to South. Sea vs. mountains. I'd like to keep my dating metaphor, so here is a small – but crucial – question: What does your heart beat for more?
My dream has always been: a house in the mountains. Or an apartment. The main thing is that I can enjoy my morning double espresso with a view. Until that time comes, I get in my car and take a six-hour drive to enjoy my coffee in Schladming for the next few days. You just have to make your dreams come true.
Why Schladming?
First of all: I love Austria – this passion was practically instilled in me. And you never really lose a good upbringing, do you? My top 3: Vienna, Fügen, Schladming – in constantly changing order of popularity.
This time, it's Styria. What do I like about it? Things move at a relaxed pace here. The clocks tick a little slower. The next larger cities, Salzburg and Bad Ischl, are about an hour away, and things are rather leisurely there too. Even if you wanted to: you won't find any hustle and bustle here on vacation (unless, like me, you bring your sister along with her child, dog, and all). Although… with the seemingly endless possibilities for activities, a bit of leisure stress might arise. Ah… always these First World Problems.
Where to stay:
For me, there is really only one answer here: the Pichlmayrgut! In the sauna, locals told me that the Hoteldorf is almost considered a cultural asset of Styria. Apparently, even Arnold Schwarzenegger has stayed here. Somehow, I don't find it hard to imagine Arnold in the wellness area…
First mentioned in 1117, the Pichlmayrgut looks back on a history of over 900 years – and you can feel it. That kind of thing makes my nostalgic heart skip a beat. As a guest, you get the feeling that you're in the setting of a feel-good movie. Romy Schneider, where are you? Absolute highlight: the food. In the morning, there are freshly baked goods from the in-house confectioner, and in the evening, an excellent six-course menu.
Places to be
Well... where do I start? I have to hold myself back, otherwise you'll still be reading tomorrow. So I'll try something that is really hard for me. I want to keep it brief. So: Put on your hiking boots, ready, go!
Hike to the Spiegelsee with goat watching
My favorite hike! At 1,800 meters above sea level, you'll find the Spiegelsee, which can be reached comfortably on foot in just 45 minutes. In perfect weather, the opposite Dachstein massif is reflected in the water – so you see double. Perfect photo location and picnic spot. We always start from the Reiteralm. It is easily accessible by car, bus, or cable car. By the way, I always treat myself there to an extra-large buttermilk with blueberries and a piece of curd strudel.
Highlight: On the way, you encounter incredibly tame goats. Petting allowed!
Day hike Wild Waters – Silberklamm
A MUST! Although... admittedly: You should be well-trained and enduring for this tour. So definitely get sturdy footwear! It's best to start in Schladming at the Kraiter parking lot. If you follow the Talbach, you'll eventually come to the highlight of the tour – the Riesach waterfall. Afterwards, you cross the 50-meter-long suspension bridge, which offers a great view of the Höll gorge. On the way back, you go via the Gfölleralm to the Riesachsee. Tip: Take a break here at the Kaltenbachalm.
Ride to the Dachstein
At the risk of repeating myself. But a trip to the Dachstein is a MUST! Really. Be sure to reserve a gondola ticket in advance, otherwise you might have to turn back on site. A tip for the very brave: If you're lucky and catch one of the new panorama cabins, you can ride on the gondola's balcony in the fresh air. Once at the top, numerous highlights await. My favorites: the Stairway to Nothingness and the Ice Palace. The former leads down 14 narrow steps to a glass platform at dizzying heights.
So: Because I'm far from finished but absolutely have to share a few more must-dos, here is a small list.
● Family hikes in Ramsau am Dachstein: Originally intended for fans of the ZDF series “Die Bergretter,” but also a beautiful and relaxing tour for everyone else.
● Admont Abbey Library
● Zipline at Stoderzinken
● Paragliding at Flightpark Planai
● Trip to Bad Ischl
Cuisine – where to feast and enjoy?
What would Bon Voyage be without a photogenic and delicious coffee spot? On a rainy day, my sister and I left our hiking boots in the hotel room and drove 90 kilometers to Bad Ischl. Very cliché, we treated ourselves to a tour of Sisi’s Imperial Villa and then stopped by the Zauner Confectionery.
Since 1832, traditional Austrian coffee culture has been meticulously maintained and celebrated here. Definitely treat yourself to a Zaunerstollen – by the way – which Emperor Franz Josef himself enjoyed. A real Zaunerstollen consists of crushed wafers mixed with a nougat-like hazelnut–chocolate mass. Who invented it? Josef Nickerl, former pastry chef at the famous Karlsbad “Hotel Pupp.” Which wonderfully ties back to the first Bon Voyage column…
Not in the mood for sugar-coated cuisine? Then head to Irding to the Landhaus Gabriel (at this point, thanks to my friend Caro for the tip).
The boss – Gerald Gabriel – has worked as a chef all over the world, later took over his parents' breakfast guesthouse and turned it into a hotel with a special focus on really good food. Nowadays, he dedicates himself solely to his culinary guests. In summer, you sit comfortably in the garden, in winter in the no less cozy guest room.
Packing List
You can guess: hiking boots and sportswear. Shortly before departure, I treated myself to two new leggings from Fabletics and a lightweight, figure-hugging softshell jacket from Jack Wolfskin. And since I am already known among friends as the sun police, I carried my sun spray from Eucerin and a sun protection stick from La Roche Posay daily. This way, I could refresh my sun protection repeatedly during the various hikes. Plus: The sun spray with SPF 30 is very light and works excellently over makeup.
Shopped
In Ramsau, we literally stumbled upon a small but fine flea market. With backpacks on our backs and hiking boots on our feet, we rummaged through the display. My sister Julia stocked up on authentic leather pants and a dirndl blouse. I packed beautiful traditional jewelry, which I, as a “quasi-Nordic,” would like to combine in an everyday way with lovely autumn looks. Because yes: I was told that by Austrian definition, everything from Berlin northwards already counts as the “deep north.”
Otherwise, I invested my vacation fund in culinary experiences.
Speaking of culinary delights: Would you like a preview of September? It continues deliciously. My next little trip is all about enjoyment. A little hint: Life is too short to drink bad wine…
In this spirit, my dears: Bon Voyage! We'll see each other again … the only question is where …
Yours, Isabel
Isabel Sophie Möller is a journalist for TV, print, and online. Just as unwillingly as she chooses a platform for her creative output, she refuses to be pinned down to one topic to write about. Fashion or beauty? VIPs or royals? Books or Netflix? You can give your heart and thoughts to everything. That's exactly what she does – preferably in her travel-slash-lifestyle column “Bon Voyage,” where she takes her readers along on one of her discovery tours every month. More from Isabel can be found on her Instagram account @the_italian_bazaar