Fashion Guy und Berlin Boy Julian Daynov zeigt uns seine Top Finds im deutschen Fashion Design, die er letzte Woche im Berliner Salon gesehen hat.
Berlin is all about change and nothing here remains constant, so even the format of the bi-annual Fashion Week in town doesn't make any exception...
There was less atmosphere of a Fashion Week in the city, less madness around the hunt of seats for the shows - is it because Fashion Weeks in general are getting less and less relevant (with all Instagram coverage, Live Streams and the increasing call for slow fashion) OR because fashion itself is in the end so liberal, that less and less people care about the dogmatic prescriptions of designers and labels?!
Looking back at last week in Berlin, i am finding it all rather vague than Vogue, but thank God there is still hope for all those emerging talents...
What started as a small initiative to support German fashion design, is now on its way to being the best address for inspiring design and artistic creativity. Der Berliner Salon with its satellite events made it to a real pillar for German design and this season gave stage to not just fashion designers, but also various ones working with furniture, jewelry or fine art and surely made it to a the much hotter spot in town than the established Fashion Week venues.
In the majestic site of a former palace in Berlin's historic center, over 40 names presented their latest vision over design in its multiple dimensions.
The walk thorough the rooms made my heart beat faster and those are the ones i ultimately fell in love with and you necessarily should keep an eye on:
Exceptional cuts, contemporary high-fashion and timeless luxury by super talented Berlin based master mind, who once again shows that glamorous looks are nothing unconventional for the rather casual-driven Berlin signature. Outstanding, chick and properly opulent, this time he used fragments from the aesthetics of Bauhaus and the 80's; the Japanese dressing culture and the European occasional dressing, using bold prints, flowered themes and color-blocked checks; heavy velvet and transparent mesh.
The queen of lush bling and luxurious accessorizing managed to overdo herself one again. This time she presenting a totally spot-on new line of waist bags in soft leather, strapped with her iconic belts: super pop, very glam and frankly, THE piece to not miss having around your waist. Stay excited to see them as they hit stores in the next month and watch them turn into THE it-piece of this summer.
Delicate, gentle and known for its silent simplicity, the Berlin master of subtile elegance goes after bolder colors, featuring velvet suits in red and blocking them with white and black basics and his soft-as-a-cloud cashmere you can not stop touching.
The name of Anna Heinrichs already made it far out of just trend reports or blogs and into features of The New York Times and the portfolios of Matches, Lodenfrey or Breuninger. Her outrages take on interpreting sleep-shirts into society-suitable dresses is a true refreshment. Pyjama-gowns worth being brought out into daylight and outside the privacy of one's bedroom. You will definitely hear more about Anna, as I will be very soon visiting her for studio to discover the glory of her designs and talk to her about her very own take on fashion.
There is basically no Berlin Fashion without Lala Berlin. There is barely anyone else pioneering as much as Leyla Piedayesh in promoting the diversity of Berlin's style and people through her clothes, in campaigns or with her initiatives. A true ambassador for the city's unconventional chick, she presented her take on a rather bright-colored Autumn Winter, telling us about her love affair with orange, olive green prints, belted jackets and voluminous overcoats.
By now, it should not be a secret to any of our readers that all of us here at SoSue adore the creations of Jörg and Otto from ODEEH each and every season and passionately follow their path. Significant in their style, they never miss on putting an own signature even with the show locations they pick and this time presented the vision for Autumn Winter 18/19 in the rough scenery of a closed-down grocery store from former GDR-times. Impressive light show and slow-swingy music added up to the contrast of the busy city walks and rather casually dressed people around town, giving the selected guests a breath of natural calm to enjoy the beauty of real grown-up chick and femininity. Rich materials as silk, boiled wool and velvet, flamboyant prints, a modern take on checks, various feather applications and decorative stitchings embraced loose silhouettes of wide pants, sharp skirts and boxy jackets in colors as olive, midnight blue, violet. All very impressive, all very opulent, while still easily wearable and catchy.
From Shanghai to London, New York to Paris, design lovers with a passion for sleek looks and perfect craftsmanship already know the creations of Philipp Bree. His bags and leather accessories go through time and sustain seasons, ultimately turning into favorite pieces and gaining more beauty each and every time you take them out und use them. Here some examples of his take on catchy simplicity.
Overall creative genius William Fan once again delivered not just an incredible show presentation, but a breathtaking collection which will definitely make its way into countless magazines and features. One of few approaching fashion really holistically through visual story telling and experiential journeys taking the audience each and every time to another distant place, where Fan scoops his inspiration, he this time led the fashion crowd to a Chinese restaurant and simply fed all their senses.
Oriental trousers, rich embroidery, lurex elements, tinsel, berber yarn, wide trenches hugging shirts with overlenght sleeves, ageless designs, self-drafted bags and jewelry and a gender-bending silhouette simply worth admiration and a deep bow to his vision and brilliancy. Oh, yes, I am a fan of William Fan and I guess so is everyone just once looking at his creations.
I was really interested to see the comeback of German brand Strenesse and was happily surprised by their very contemporary take fashion for the next season. To me, there hasn't been a complete reinvention of the brand and will still stick to its credentials in rather business-wear, but obviously added a whole load of fashionability and refined extravaganza. Classic colors as beige, grey, baby blue, wide shapes in pants and blouses, big coats brought excitement and first guesses, where the collection will be going after the rebirth.
All in all, i can sum up that according to German fashion designers, next winter will be all about
- ALL TYPES OF CHECKS
- VOLUMES IN PANTS OR TOPS
- WIDE LAYERING
- LOOSE FITS
- FLOODING OVERCOATS
You might have a lot of those already from this season, but make sure to get some by one of Berlin's rising stars.
Über den Autor:
Julian Daynov ist ein wahres Fashion Victim, ein Serien-Netzwerker, eine ganze Welt für sich.
Er arbeitet als Trend Scout, Einkaufs-Consultant und Kommunikationsstratege für Marken aus den Bereichen Fashion, Art und Lifestyle und reist ununterbrochen um die Welt auf der Suche nach spannenden neuen Brands für die Sortimente seiner Retail-Kunden. Nach Stationen bei Barneys, Harrods, Fashion TV, Condé Nast und dem Brand-Retail Powerhaus Liganova, arbeitet er zur Zeit für den US Kaufhaus-Giganten Saks Fifth Avenue und der Einführung seines Premium Off-Price Ablegers Saks Off 5th in Europa.
Wenn er nich gerade im Flieger sitzt, in Showrooms abhängt oder auf Fashion-Shows rumspringt, schreibt er hin und wieder als Gast-Autor für So Sue und kommentiert alles rund um die coolen Dinge des Lebens.