Not only is Lidewej Edelkoort among the most influential and prominent trend analysts of our time, but also counts as one of the rather extravagant, polarizing and controversial ones on top. Explore her vision on what fashion will bring along and get a read why and how you should remember her name.
Who is she actually?! THE trend guru of our time per se. Starting her career in the early 70's, Li Edelkoort has practically seen it all –from bold suede pants and velvet A-shape-skirts, through hippie-chic, flared pants, leather cult and checked shirts; from platform shoes and lurex trousers to fur slippers and skinny jeans; from Andy Warhol, Cher, Bowie and Jackie O' to Yves Saint Laurent, Vivienne, Gianni up to Tisci, Virgil, Demna, Miley Cirus, Michelle Obama and a whole lot of Kardashians: i believe nothing can surprise or scare this lady - she has seen them all come and go and was there to predict their rise and judge their fall.
Commanding over trend-bureaus in the world's major cities - New York, Paris and Tokyo - and maintaining a network of offices around the globe, Li Edelkoort closely works with multiple companies from various fields (such as Gucci, Prada, Armani, Zara, Coca Cola, Esteé Lauder, Mercedes, Siemens) and brings them the pure essence of what she sees in her crystal ball as future trend and what herself and her meanwhile large team fish freshly out of the wide universe where fashion happens and trends arise.
On her credibility just in short: Years and years and years ago, she predicted Food will be the "next big thing" and hell was she right about it! #AvocadoIsTheNewBlack
You weren't really thinking that you'll be back to wearing your grandma's caftans fully stitched with some ethnical and folklore motives, right? Well, she knew this was happening - already back then, when the millennium was just kicking in.
Back in the days, going to work in jogging-pants and running shoes was considered by all of us an inexcusable fashion sin, you remember?
She was so much ahead and knew the "athleisure" trend will take over the streets before the industry had invented its fancy name.
Time magazine has named her "one of 25 most influential people in fashion", Louis Vuitton sees her as "one of seven most important cultural figures in The Netherlands", I see her as my former and yet persistent teacher, a source of inspiration and a diva to look upon in my daily work.
Never on earth would I have skipped her lecture in Berlin and am happy to share some of her insights.
What is she in town for? Following the invitation of Europe's number one brand-retail powerhouse LIGANOVA, which develops retail concepts for top brands as Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld, Adidas, Nespresso, Mercedes or Hugo Boss, Li Edelkoort made her way to this other trend metropolis called Berlin to co-host a lecture with the company's COO Alex Salzer on the future of fashion, retail and the lifestyle-related industries.
What's trending up next? Although Li has presented a visually extremely strong and impactful selection of pictures and collages and has guided the audience through what the next waves in fashion will bring along, i will point out just a couple of those really broad ones I already witness really frequently in high-fashion since a couple of seasons.
In the era of Instagram, Facebook and smart phones, portraits have gained a whole new power and their importance is greater than ever before.
Artists, photographers, designers all use the motif of a person's portrait be it for their recent artwork, fabric prints or exhibitions. Whole books are being issued about the selfie, museums dedicate exhibitions to them and Li predicts this is just the beginning of paying tribute to one's own self. While back in the days when computer screens in our offices and homes were a revolution and all formats were rather landscape / horizontal, not it's all about the vertical / portrait layouts.
Workwear will continue its influence and will deepen its impact on daily fashion, escalating up to the fields of Farmer's Looks, elements of Shamanism, Monk styles.
Blues will force their presence and not only due to a denim dominance; Yellow will be a big thing; Handcraft will emerge further into day-wear and will make us see more and more embroidery, paintings, hand-written symbols on apparel and accessories; Fabrics are more "luxurious", with structure, theartical, with a mixed-media-touch of velvet and silk, for example.
Folklore, Romanism and all themes around the style of our grandmas and granddads will grow – soft and thin satin ribbons as applications on dresses, blouses and light outerwear; we will be including more headscarves, bandanas, vintage pins, brooches, medallions in out looks.
The purity, naiveté and imperfection of children's drawings, their way of combining on the first hand outrageous colors will make their way into casualwear, after already being spotted in couture.
Since we are living in hard times, cartoons, any kind of humor and joke with the realness will grow in presence on fabrics, in fashion, art and daily life.
We are moving from color blocking to pattern blocking by mixing fabrics, structures, raw materials into one single cloth.
Metallics in general and the mix of Gold, Silver and Brass will be more common than it used to be back then, when we were not at all wearing these together. Not only as accents on fabrics, but also as stand-alone-pieces as jackets, trenches, pants, solid chunky footwear (not like before as fragile elements on sandal-belts and leashes).
Using resources more responsibly is the one happy thing for all of us to notice - also in our fashion consumption we will enhance recycling: of denims, of various other garments and will turn them into new pieces by combining multiple ones into a new piece with various fabrics, textures, colors.
As far as beauty is concerned, Li predicts we will be further on dissociating from the "plastic look" from all the "Barbie-like" ideals and will face that beauty means reality, purity, imperfection, virginity. For these, she pointed out examples from recent campaigns showcasing real-people-models, faces with scars, spots, marks. Campaings with less retouches shots will make their way onto billboards and magazines, making it possible for customers to identify with the photographed persons.
Trend or not, in a world of free spirit, fashion is as liberal as never before - it is up to us to decide which trend to like, hate, follow or ban; what style to set, look upon and be happy with, so don't force yourself to take anything Li or any other fashion goddess predicts as the only truth - find your own style-truth and embrace your personal inner fashion-gods.
Über den Autor:
Julian Daynov ist ein wahres Fashion Victim, ein Serien-Netzwerker, eine ganze Welt für sich.
Er arbeitet als Trend Scout, Einkaufs-Consultant und Kommunikations-stratege für Marken aus den Bereichen Fashion, Art und Lifestyle und reist ununterbrochen um die Welt auf der Suche nach spannenden neuen Brands für die Sortimente seiner Retail-Kunden. Zur Zeit arbeitet er für den US Kaufhaus-Giganten Saks Fifth Avenue und der Einführung seines Premium Off-Price Ablegers Saks Off 5th in Deutschland.
Als guter Freund und treuer Fan von So-Sue schreibt er hin und wieder als Gast-Autor für uns und kommentiert alles rund um die coolen Dinge des Lebens.